Focus on the cuticle, the protective barrier of our hair
A healthy cuticle is the best protection for hair. What is its role? How to take care of it? What actions should be avoided?
What is a hair cuticle?
The hair cuticle – also called the bark – is the outermost covering of the hair. It is made up of cells that overlap in layers, forming scales arranged like roof tiles facing downward. The cuticle is a good indicator of the health of the hair. When it is smooth and the scales are tightly closed, the cuticle gives shine, luster, softness to the hair. If the cuticle is weakened, even damaged, raised by too many chemical treatments or not enough care, the hair will suffer.
What is the purpose of a hair cuticle?
This thin layer protects the hair shaft from mechanical damage (brushing too hard), chemical damage (hair dyes, straightening) and thermal damage (hair dryers, straighteners) while allowing it to retain the moisture the hair needs. Near the root, its scales are very smooth and regular (because at the regrowth level, the hair is the youngest), but the further away from the scalp, the more they are eroded. The cause? The natural wear and tear of time, but also the aggressions suffered.
The hair cuticle, how does it work?
The scales that form the cuticle have the ability to open and close: they open to let care products through, then close to keep them and retain moisture. If the hair scales do not open, the hair will not be able to be nourished or receive everything it needs to be strong and healthy. It is the effect of heat that allows the cuticles to open. However, when they open and remain open, the hair risks being weakened: if the scales are open, they can no longer retain moisture in the heart of the hair shaft and the hair will become dry and eventually break. Not to mention that the raised scales will become entangled with the scales of neighboring hair, promoting the appearance of knots.
The hair cuticle, how to preserve it?
It is the cosmetics that will help the hair to defend itself. The opening of the cuticle during washing, drying, coloring can be compensated by a conditioning treatment that will close the scales and protect the hair from damage. We then adopt a keratin-based treatment (shampoo, conditioner, mask) that will fill the gaps between the scales and thus smooth the cuticles.
